Just Like Wine, We All Need to Breathe

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Just Like Wine, We All Need to Breathe

* As featured in Wine Enthusiast Best of Year Issue 2023

BY MARSHALL TILDEN III

woman experiencing a moment of Zen while enjoying a glass of wine

Stocksy

Is it just me or does life these days feel faster paced and more stressful than ever? The cadence in general seems to be accelerating and multitasking is the new norm. I suppose we can blame some of that on the pandemic lockdown, doom-scrolling and 7-second viral videos (thanks, TikTok). All of a sudden, AI instantly creates content that used to take us humans hours or days. Pile on the daily grind and normal life events that we all endure, and that additional tension in your neck and shoulders is easily explained.

Whatever it is that makes you feel as wound up as a yo-yo ready to be unleashed, there is always one activity that can help reduce those stress levels and bring you back to neutral: breathing. Sometimes we forget that just a few simple long, deep and drawn-out breaths can help us relax and get centered. Just as we all can benefit from a few minutes of box breathing or the deep 4-7-8 breathing technique (which refers to the seconds you take to inhale, hold and exhale—an exercise I highly recommend), our most treasured bottles of wine can benefit from that same deep breathing to unwind and unravel themselves into a more relaxed state.

You may have just read that last sentence and asked, “How can wine relax?” Think about this for a moment: Have you ever opened a really young, big and brash red wine? Say a Napa Cab, a Priorat, an Australian Shiraz or even a Côte Rôtie, for example? If you just pop the cork on these wines and pour yourself a sip, there’s a high likelihood of it being extremely overpowering with super concentrated fruit, high alcohol levels and maybe massive tannins that will have you sucking in your cheeks. These wines can come across as wound-up, or tight, and even one-dimensional in their first showing straight out of the bottle.

But allow these same wines to interact with oxygen, and you might imagine they breathe their own sigh of relief while swirling around in the decanter or glass. The densely concentrated fruit stretches its legs and exudes a variety of primary aromas and flavors hidden upon first sip. And those gripping, gritty tannins will simmer down and soften, just enough to let you know they are there without overpowering the palate. That alcohol level will still be elevated, but with the fruit and tannins now released and relaxed, the perceived balance of these structural components begins to find harmony on the palate, gaining complexity as the wine continues to unfurl. It’s almost like the wine went from being crunched in the fetal position in the bottle to fully sprawled on a velvet couch, exposing its inner beauty layer by layer. If you are not sold on how important breathing is for yourself, just try and go for a minute without it. This is why these deep, calming and focused breathing techniques help our bodies take in as much clean and healthy oxygen as possible while releasing all of that carbon dioxide, and negativity, on the out-breath.

This article originally appeared in the 2023 Best of Year issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

Thanksgiving Wine Pairing Ideas and Recs

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I don’t know about you, but Thanksgiving is definitely my favorite holiday. On top of it being all about family and gratitude, there are so many different kinds of dishes on the table to go along with the bird, that the wine pairing options are endless. Even if you are not hosting for the day (which makes life that much easier) you can still have a huge impact on the meal by bringing the right wines for your family and friends to enjoy. I mean, who doesn’t love the person who rolls in with a few bottles of great juice?! Which then begs the question… what are the right wines to pair with a traditional Thanksgiving meal?

The great thing about a roasted turkey and all the trimmins is that there are a ton of wines that will pair well with the meal. It just depends on what style of wine you and your crew prefer. In my opinion, it is all about wines that have great acidity and not so aggressive tannins. Turkey doesn’t have the fat content of red meat, which typically will bind with those tannins. Instead, the tannins can take center stage rendering the turkey and stuffing as bland as opposed to full of flavor.  And when you have that mouthwatering acidity in a wine (reds too), they can pair with a variety of different foods that are sure to surround your bird. So while just about any wine will work, here are some options that may complement your meal better than others.

The classic white wine pairing with turkey is Riesling. The low alcohol and high acid can be a refreshing complement to the inherent richness of the meal. I prefer to stick with the drier style (Kabinett) as opposed to those that have a sweeter profile (Spatlese). Dry wines from Alsace and the Mosel River are some of the best and fairly easy to find, with some of my favorites being Wilim, Dr. H Thanisch and Joh Jos Prum. But don’t be afraid to keep it local with our FLX neighbors, as Hermann J. Wiemer, Red Newt and Standing Stone are killing it with their Dry Rieslings.

https://www.wiemer.com/product/riesling-dry/

If you like your whites a little bigger and bolder then a Chardonnay or Burgundy may be the way to go. Although be careful of the super oaked options, as those woody tannins can stifle the richness of the bird. My favorites from CA right now are from Ettore Vineyards (a little biased since that’s my Grandfather’s name) and DuMol. I’ve been on a real Chablis kick these days (yes, still in Burgundy). The searing acidity and minerality on those wines will certainly complement your properly roasted bird. William Fevre and Louis Jadot produce some excellent and available options, but my favorite right now is the Les Hauts De Milly Chablis 2021 Premier Cru Cote De Lechet. Again, if you want to keep it local the Chards from Fox Run (FLX) and Millbrook (Hudson Valley) are really solid wines, and on the affordable side!

https://www.wineexpress.com/ettore-2019-pure-chardonnay-mendocino?quantity=1

Traditionally, the go-to red wines to pair with turkey are Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Rhone Blends. Pinot is arguably the best option as the higher acid levels, vibrant fruit and peppery spice really bring out the best in just about any poultry dish. The problem in my family is that no one drinks Pinot. Almost everyone at that table prefers their wines big and opulent and tend to reach for a massive Napa Cab over an elegant red Burgundy. But I plan to enjoy my bird paired with a healthy glass of the Armitage 2020 Santa Cruz Pinot, as well as my favorite Burgundy at the moment… the Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur 2019 Hautes Cotes De Nuits Rouge, Les Dames Huguettes.

https://www.wineexpress.com/domaine-guy-yvan-dufouleur-2019-hautes-cotes-de-nuits-rouge-les-dames-huguettes

So the pairing that usually works best for my crew is a hearty Cali Zinfandel or Red Blend.  They tend to have loads of big, dark and spicy fruit but a little lighter body and softer tannins than Cab. Ridge always produces high quality Zins across their entire portfolio, but if you can find the Zins from Zichichi (a small producer in Dry Creek), then you are in for a real treat! As for the Red Blend, this year I’m going with Rotation Red Blend 2020 Lodi. This hearty Zin blend is balanced and layered with flavors of red and black cherry, blueberry,  chocolate, fresh plums and floral blossoms… a perfect partner for your perfectly prepared Thanksgiving bird.

https://zichichifamilyvineyard.com/zichichi-wines/

Wines from Southern Rhone typically consist of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with Grenache usually taking center stage. Grenache leans on the lighter side in terms of body with good acid, spicy berry fruit and plush tannins. Blend in some meaty Syrah and a dollup of dark Mourvèdre and you have an ideal blend for your Thanksgiving table. Cotes du Rhone Villages wines offer a step up in quality (usually) over a standard Cotes du Rhone, and still can be found for less than $20.  However they have a hard time standing up to those bigger and more complex Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas wines, which is why those are just about impossible to find for under $40. Some excellent producers offering value options include Barville, Santa Duc, Vidal Fleury and M. Chapoutier. My favorite CDP under $30 right is the Vieux Clocher 2020 Chateauneuf Du Pape, Symphonie Des Galets. But if you are from the ‘Go Big or Go Home’ mentality then you can’t go wrong with any of the big dogs such as Domaine de Pegau, Vieux Telegraphe, Chateau de Beaucastel or Mas De Boislauzon. Just be sure to give those bigger wines some oxygen before you start digging into them, or they may come off a little tight and inexpressive.

https://www.wineexpress.com/vieux-clocher-2020-chateauneuf-du-pape

Most importantly, make sure to pop open a bottle of something that you know you will enjoy the most! As the best pairing you can ask for is a glass of delicious wine enjoyed over a wonderful meal surrounded by loved ones. Now THAT is a perfect pairing that we can all be thankful for.

Have you had your Epiphany Wine Moment?

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How a fabulous bottle of wine can change your life…

As featured in Wine Enthusiast

For those of you who have already basked in your epiphany wine experience, allow me to congratulate you. And if you are not sure if you have had it or not, then it most definitely has not happened, as it is unmistakably crystal clear when it does occur. The beauty of the epiphany wine moment is that you never know when that illuminating discovery of the senses will come and knock you off your feet.

My moment came early on in my wine journey, and as it happens would end up leading me into wine as a career. I was living in New York City and going to school for my Master’s in Education while working to put myself through school. I had always been interested in, and enjoyed, wine as part of our Sunday Italian family dinner ritual at my grandparents’ house. Of course, it was usually baskets of Chianti on the table, but on special occasions my grandpa would bust out a bottle of somewhat generic Burgundy—comparatively it was a real treat.

California reds were next; and, boy, were those wines eye opening. All that fruit, oak and alcohol opened a whole new world of flavors and textures. But they still didn’t provide my “holy crap, is this wine phenomenal” moment. That happened at Sparks Steak House in Manhattan where my family was celebrating my dad’s birthday. He was feeling saucy that night and splurged for a bottle of 1986 Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin, which at that point was about 10 years old.

I swirled; I smelled; I sipped. Then I think I passed out for several seconds. But when I came to, the berry fruit flavors combined with the black pepper spice, floral notes and earthy, mushroom undertones lingered unlike anything I had experienced before. And the unwavering creamy texture on the palate is something I have yet to experience again. It literally left me speechless for about a minute, but once I came to and started raving about it, I haven’t stopped since.

What is this epiphany experience though? It can be an ethereal sniff and sip of wine that mystically opens all your senses to how an incredible wine can smell and taste. All those wine descriptors that you may have heard in the past that probably sounded a little wacky, start to have meaning. The crushed rose petals, the grilled bing cherry, the delicate and harmonious balance of searing acidity and sleek, silky tannins. It’s astonishing when a wine can turn on that sensory light bulb in your head. It’s downright emotional.

It also feeds into the potentially lifelong quest of replicating it. Wine lovers search their whole lives trying to wrap their arms around another epiphany wine experience, but it is easier said than done.

The moment the aha-wine passes your lips it opens your eyes to the intricacies of the universe inside a grape, and you start to question and understand the differences in varietals, regions, terroir, ageing, vintages, winemaking processes and cellaring. It almost forces you into thinking while you’re drinking to decode the mystical experience to determine what you love so much about certain wines and why, and what you don’t enjoy and why not. Yet when it comes to that one wine, the one that lit the fuse, there is no thought on that one. It goes directly on the Janis Joplin theory of enology: “You know you got it, if it makes you feel good.”

Left Bank vs. Right Bank in Bordeaux: What’s the Difference?

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As featured in Wine Enthusiast …

If you have spent time in Bordeaux, France, or chatted with friends over a bottle that hails from the region, the inevitable conversation of Left Bank versus Right Bank wines will arise. Just to clear the air—this debate has nothing to do with cash flow or basketball (as in, bank shots), but everything to do with the river banks in Bordeaux, which correspond with different styles of wines.  

Confused? Fret not. We have demystified the differences between Left Bank and Right Bank wines so you can drink and discuss them confidently.  

What Are the Banks?  

The wine region of Bordeaux is located close to the Atlantic Ocean, giving it a maritime climate. Within Bordeaux lies a body of water, called the Gironde Estuary, that connects the Atlantic Ocean to two rivers. The river that runs along the east side of Bordeaux is called the Dordogne and the river on the west side is called the Garonne. These two rivers connect at the base of the Gironde Estuary and fork outwards.

The wine regions that are located to the east (right) of the Dordogne River are considered part of the Right Bank. The regions that are located between the two rivers and to the west (left) of the Garonne River are called the Left Bank. All of that underwater turmoil where the two rivers connect contributes to differences in soil composition on the two banks, which can create uniquely different wines.  

Bordeaux Appellations to Know 

The two banks have numerous appellations that are well-known for producing exquisite wines. The Left Bank includes the Médoc and Haut Médoc wine regions, which encompass some of the highest-rent districts in the wine world. This is where the most recognized and world-renowned Bordeaux appellations are located, such as Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien and Margaux.  

To the south of the Médoc, but still in the Left Bank, you have Pessac-Léognan and Graves, and then Sauternes and Barsac further south, which are known for their sweet wine production.   

The Right Bank’s most famous appellations are Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, noted for the most age-worthy wines. The area also includes those of Fronsac, Canon Fronsac, Lalande de Pomerol, Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Bourg, Côtes de Bordeaux and Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux.   

Left Bank vs Right Bank Bordeaux
WINE ENTHUSIAST

Unique Soils and Terroir  

While only a proverbial stone’s throw away from one another, the soil between the Left and Right Banks vary significantly. Thanks to all that underwater mix-up, which happens when the rivers meet the estuary, the Left Bank’s soil possesses more of a limestone base, but with a gravel layer on top. It has minimal clay to retain moisture, so the vines must go deeper for water. That struggle often leads to more concentrated flavors in the fruit.  

Meanwhile, the Right Bank inherently has that same limestone, but it is closer to the surface. Additionally, clay dominates the soil composition and has far less gravel. Why is that important? Funny you should ask… 

Left and Right Bank Grape Varieties  

Different grape varietals thrive in differing types of soil—and this is especially true when it comes to what thrives in the Left and Right Banks. Cabernet Sauvignon prefers the struggle that the rocky, gravelly soil that the Left Bank offers. The gravel captures and holds heat, helping the area’s wines to develop ripe fruit flavors and those big, chewy tannins. This allows these wines to age for the long haul. Other varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec play accompanying roles on the Left Bank, but far and away Cabernet Sauvignon is the star and the main grape used in the majority of wines.   

On the Right Bank (the northeast side of the Dordogne) Merlot reigns supreme. It relishes in the extra water that clay tends to hold, and doesn’t require extra heat, as Cabernet Sauvignon does. It is typically blended with Cabernet Franc (certain Chateaux will even use Cabernet Franc as the dominant grape), with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec making cameo appearances in certain wines.

Different Wine Styles  

So, with all the varying soils, terroir, grapes and appellations, how do the wines differ in the bottle? The Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blends from the Left Bank are typically bigger, bolder and more ageable wines. That’s because the higher fruit concentration and tannin levels are conducive to wines that will evolve and improve with time in the cellar.  

In comparison, the Merlot-based blends of the Right Bank tend to be smooth and supple in their youth, with soft fruit and mellow tannins making them ideal for early enjoyment. Of course, the top-tier wines of St. Emilion (from Pavie, Figeac, Clos Fourtet, Angelus and others) and Pomerol (from Petrus and Cheval Blanc) are certainly cut from the same cloth as those ageable Grand Cru Classe wines of the Left Bank and can benefit from decades in the cellar. 

Classifications  

The Left Bank is also home to the notorious 1855 Classification of the Médoc, which includes the five “first-growth” estates of Château Margaux, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour and Château Haut-Brion. (Although Château Haut-Brion is technically in Graves, not Medoc.)  

Beyond this exclusive first growth club, there are 14 second-growth estates, 14 third-growth, 10 fourth-growth and 18 fifth-growth. The area’s Sauternes and Barsac sweet wine producers also have their own classification system. 

The only classification in the right bank is that of St-Emilion. It originated in 1955, and wines are tasted, reviewed and updated every 10 years. The top-tier wines receive the Premier Grand Cru Classé designation, which are further distinguished by “A” and “B” rankings. The latest 2022 edition includes 14 Premier Grand Cru Classés, with only two (Chateau Figeac and Chateau Pavie) awarded Grand Cru Classé A status, and 71 Grand Cru Classés.   

Not too complicated, we hope? Armed with this knowledge, drinking your way through Bordeaux has never been easier. 

Meet Wine Enthusiast’s Chief Revenue & Education Officer, Marshall Tilden III, DWS

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28/07/2020

by WSET Global

Main image

This week we are chatting with Marshall Tilden, Chief Revenue and Education Officer at Wine Enthusiast, to mark the launch of Wine Enthusiast Academy in New York on 1st August. Marshall tells us about setting up Wine Enthusiast Academy and becoming a WSET course provider

It’s a long way from wine publishing and commerce to wine education, talk us through Wine Enthusiast’s strategy…

Wine Enthusiast has been the ultimate source in the US for everything wine for the last four decades. From our reviews and ratings to our colourful and insightful editorial pieces, to our exclusive wine cellars, coolers, glassware, and other wine accessories to our bridal registry for the ultimate wine-centric newlyweds. We have always had such a personal involvement with our audience’s wine lifestyle and education, that offering WSET classes seemed like a perfect partnership and the best way to help educate our ever-curious followers. And with my background in education and wine, everything came together just perfectly.

How is Wine Enthusiast Academy starting its journey as a WSET course provider? What classes will be offered?

Our goal was to start our classes in our Westchester County, NY headquarters in April this year. However, with COVID-19 that obviously will be delayed. So, we quickly switched to online courses and will be offering WSET’s Level 1 Award in Wines starting this August. Once we are all back to some form of normality, we feel offering an online programme as well as classroom teaching will be a perfect combination for our students. We also plan to offer the Level 2 Award in Wines by the end of 2020 in both the online and classroom formats as well.

What type of students are you hoping to attract?

We have so many customers, readers and followers that are thirsty for more wine knowledge. They continually voice their desire for us to help them learn more about the wine world. So, we hope that both the everyday wine lover, as well as wine industry professionals, will come and join in the fun… particularly when it comes to the Level 1 Award in Wines. It is such a great introduction to the world of wine and offers so much useful information for the at-home collector as well as the wine professional. Our main goal is to make this wine education as fun and engaging as it is informative.

What are your ambitions for Wine Enthusiast Academy as a WSET course provider?

To help educate those wine consumers and professionals both in our community and now throughout the US, with our online classes using all the wine knowledge that we at Wine Enthusiast possess. We are so fortunate to have some of the most enlightened wine editors and professionals in the world. To have them contribute to our programme and help educate those who are interested in learning more about the wonderful world of wine makes our academy like no other course provider in the world.

The wonderful part about Wine Enthusiast is our diversity across so many channels in the wine industry. Our enrolled students will be able to take advantage of special promotions through our commerce division and receive benefits and discounts on products and subscriptions, which makes us unique in our offering.

How would you describe your own WSET learning journey?

My WSET experience started with the online Level 3 in Wine and Spirits course… and that was no walk in the park! I had always considered myself fairly knowledgeable about wine, but just a few weeks, in I knew I was going to be learning about wine at a much higher level.

And then there was the Diploma… that programme truly brings about a roller coaster of emotions. Working a full-time job and having two young children at home, I had to take my Diploma online. It took almost three years of early morning studying, late-night tasting and just continual learning of the overall wine business in general. It required focus, persistence, dedication and a continued desire to succeed in order to pass all six units (which I did on the first try for each level). But it has transformed the way I think about tasting and brought my analytical skills to an extremely heightened level. I can no longer take the first sip of any glass of wine and not go through the full Systematic Approach to Tasting grid in my head. And I love to share that information with others who are interested in how that process works.

What is the most exciting aspect of becoming a WSET course provider?

Being able to share the wine experience with others. Wine is a wonderful beverage that brings people together. We celebrate with it; we enjoy meals with it, and it helps lead to meaningful interactions between family and friends. Any way that we can help our audience learn more about wine, and bring them into our Wine Enthusiast family, will only help improve the overall wine culture in our global community.

If you are interested in learning more about wine, spirits or sake, why not take a WSET course online or in the classroom. To find a course provider near you click here.